Dōgo Onsen

Author: Richard Perkins
Photos/Videos Taken: 2025/05/18
Address: Yunomachi, Matsuyama-shi,
Ehime 5-6 【790-0842】
Admission Fee: Kami-no-yu downstairs・Adult ¥700・Child ¥350 Kami-no-yu 2nd floor seats・Adult ¥1300・Child ¥650 Tama-no-yu 2nd floor seats・Adult ¥2000・Child ¥1000 Tama-no-yu 3rd floor private room・Adult ¥2500・¥1250 Tama-no-yu 3rd floor reservation room (Shirasagi-no-ma Room)・¥6000 (per group) + Adult ¥1300・Child ¥650 Tama-no-yu 3rd floor reservation room (The Soaring Room)・¥3000 (per group) + Adult ¥1300・Child ¥650 Yūshinden・Adult ¥500・Child ¥250

All across Japan, there are 温泉 (onsen—hot or boiling water that naturally gushes from beneath the earth). Certain prefectures are especially renowned for their onsen, or hot springs. One such hot spring is in Ehime Prefecture, which has become increasingly popular with both foreign and Japanese tourists. Here, you'll find a unique hot spring unlike any other: 道後温泉 (dōgo-onsen) with (more than) 3,000 years of history. This hot spring is said to be the oldest in the country.

The main building, 道後温泉本館 (dōgo-onsen-honkan), was constructed in 1894. On December 27, 1994, it became the first public bathhouse to be recognized as an “important cultural asset”. Its striking design makes visitors feel as though they have stepped into another world. Even those unfamiliar with this unique atmosphere may find it oddly familiar. This building inspired the bathhouse featured in the acclaimed Studio Ghibli film, “Spirited Away”.  A bathhouse very similar to this appears in the movie.

It's not just modern Japanese animation—Dōgo Onsen was also featured in the novel "Botchan" by the famous author Natsume Sōseki. In the book, the main character regularly visits this hot spring. While Studio Ghibli also helped make Dōgo Onsen widely known, it was, in particular, thanks to Natsume Sōseki, that this hot spring gained national recognition.

The main building of Dōgo Onsen is three stories tall. The first floor houses the baths, the second floor features a spacious relaxation room, and the third floor offers private relaxation rooms. The baths are unusually deep—so deep that it's not possible to sit on the bottom. This depth may make it difficult for some to soak, but it’s a unique feature not found in other Japanese baths. While this might surprise some, it’s part of the appeal and charm of Dōgo Onsen. The high ceilings also create an extraordinary, almost otherworldly atmosphere.

After a bath, we highly recommend relaxing on the second floor. Please note that there is a separate entrance fee for each floor. While there, you can enjoy both tea and Japanese snacks, as well as the wonderful view outside. Visiting and relaxing in this historic bathhouse will undoubtedly become an unforgettable memory of your trip.

Another appealing aspect of this hot spring is the location. Located towards the end of the Dōgo shopping arcade (Dōgo High Color Street), it’s a great place to both shop at and eat in. You’ll find everything from bath goods to souvenirs that Ehime Prefecture is famous for, as well as many items popular among tourists. Restaurants in the arcade serve local specialties such as 鯛めし (tai-meshi—boiled rice with minced sea bream) and tangerine (orange) juice. Many shops also offer locally brewed alcohol, allowing one to sample a variety of regional flavors. If one visits Dōgo Onsen by public transportation, one will naturally pass through this vibrant arcade to get to the bathhouse, ensuring one won’t miss it.

Across Japan, there are many (wonderful) hot springs, and some people might even want to bathe daily in them. However, few—if any—are as well-renowned as Dōgo Onsen, which (as mentioned above) has been featured in books and movies. This hot spring is quite popular, so it may not be as tranquil as others. Still, with its unique design, it’s definitely worth visiting when in Ehime Prefecture.