Yumoto Onsen

Author: Richard Perkins
Photos/Videos Taken: 2023/09/13
Address: Fukagawa-Yumoto, Nagato-shi,
Yamaguchi【759-4103】

In Japan, they have what are known as 温泉 (onsen). Onsen (often called “hot springs”) is hot (or boiling) water that naturally gushes from beneath the earth. This hot water is used to bathe in, and the Japanese love it. Records indicate that onsen has been utilised in Japan for roughly 1300 years. Nowadays, a large number of 温泉街 (onsen-gai) can be found throughout the country. The onsen-gai are towns with many Japanese inns and other bathing facilities where people can soak in and enjoy the natural hot water. It’s said that depending on the onsen it can be good for one. Many contain minerals and other natural substances that are good for the body. For hundreds of years, it has been believed that bathing in an onsen can have the same effect as medical treatment. In Japanese, bathing in an onsen to treat an illness is known as 湯治 (tōji). Many Japanese travel far to soak in a well-known onsen specifically for this.

When it comes to onsen in Japan, there are many well-known ones, such as the city of Beppu, Oita Prefecture and the city of Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture. However, one prefecture that is often overlooked is Yamaguchi Prefecture. Here, there are several high-quality onsen. One of those onsen is “Yumoto Onsen” in Nagato city. The natural hot water here was discovered in the Muromachi period (1336-1573) by the zen munk Jōan. They say he found it after hearing a divine message from the God of Sumiyoshi Shrine in Shimonoseki city: 住吉大明神 (sumiyoshi-daimyoijin). Discovered in 1427, the natural hot water here has roughly 600 years of history behind it. It is the oldest onsen in Yamaguchi Prefecture.

What makes Yumoto Onsen so nice is the calm and tranquil atmosphere. In the middle of this onsen-gai is the long flowing 音信川 (otozure-gawa) River. Part of the Otozure-gawa River Park, several bridges connect the footpaths on either side of the Otozure-gawa River. There are several stepping stones inside the river itself, along with some wooden deck-like spaces where one can take a break. One can enjoy a few routes to walk along the Otozure-gawa River and several places to enjoy the scenic view. The quiet environment here will calm down and relax those who visit.

Around the Otozure-gawa River Park are a few restaurants where one can enjoy regional dishes of Yamaguchi Prefecture, such as 瓦そば (kawara-soba—buckwheat noodles made with green tea served on a hot plate in the shape of a roof tile) and specialities of Nagato city such as 焼き鳥 (yakitori—grilled chicken served on skewers).

After eating, one can enjoy the nighttime light-up of the Otozure-gawa River. At night, this river looks even more beautiful than during the daytime. Not too far by, one can also find the “Bamboo Staircase”. This is a staircase that’s encompassed by a small bamboo forest. The Bamboo Staircase is also lit at night; one can enjoy a divine atmosphere that makes for a great photograph. With great food and scenic views, soaking in the onsen is not the only pleasure of visiting Yumoto Onsen.

As mentioned above, Yumoto Onsen is the oldest onsen in Yamaguchi Prefecture. This is a great area to sightsee and enjoy some regional dishes. This is not one of the busiest onsen-gai in Japan, so one can relax at their own pace. Here, one can stay at long-established Japanese inns such as Ōtani Sansō (an inn that has been running since 1881). Here, one can enjoy top-class service and soak in some fantastic baths. When visiting Yamaguchi Prefecture, Yumoto Onsen is one area where you’ll (definitely) want to spend the night.