Hōfu Tenmangū Shrine

Author: Richard Perkins
Photos/Videos Taken: 2020/10/07・2024/07/07
Address: 14−1 Matsuzaki-cho, Hofu,
Yamaguchi【747-0029】

All across Japan, there’s a type of Shintō shrine known as a 天満宮 (tenmangū). These shrines are dedicated to the God of learning and higher education: 菅原道真 (sugawara-no-michizane). Also known as 天神様 (tenjinsama), Sugawara no Michizane was a scholar and politician in the Heian period (794-1185) who was known for writing a large number of 和歌 (waka—a 31-syllable Japanese poem). There are roughly 12,000 tenmangū shrines across Japan, and as you can imagine, they are a popular place among students about to take a school entrance exam as a place to pray. There are many significant tenmangū shrines worth noting, one of which is 防府天満宮 (hōfu-tenmangū) in Hōfu, Yamaguchi Prefecture.

Hōfu Tenmangū is a shrine with some history behind it; it’s known as the “first tenjinsama to be built”. Originally known as 松崎天満宮 (matsuzaki-tenmangū) and 宮市天満宮 (miyaichi-tenmangū), Hōfu Tenmangū was built in 904, one year after the death of Sugawara no Michizane. It was then renamed 松崎神社 (matsuzaki-jinja) in 1873 and then given its current name in 1953. Hōfu Tenmangū is also one of Japan's three most well-known tenmangū shrines. The other two are 北野天満宮 (kitano-tenmangū) in Kyoto Prefecture, and 太宰府天満宮 (dazaifu-tenmangū) in Fukuoka Prefecture.

While on his way to Kyūshū (the most southern of Japan’s four main islands), Sugawara no Michizane stopped his boat at Katsuma-no-ura in Hōfu, Yamaguchi Prefecture. The provincial governor at the time, Haji Nobusata, gave him a warm welcome. With this warm welcome and the scenic beauty of Yamaguchi Prefecture, Sugawara no Michizane relaxed. After his death, there was said to be a mysterious light that shined over Katsuma-no-ura. One day, clouds also began to linger over Mt. Sakatari nearby. It’s said that this light and clouds symbolised that Sugawara no Michizane had returned to Hōfu, Yamaguchi Prefecture. Haji Nobusata witnessed the mysterious light and clouds, so it was decided that Hōfu City would be where a tenmangū shrine was to be built.

Next to the main building at Hōfu Tenmangū is the 芳松庵 (hōshōan) tea house. Here, you can look at the inside and (if you choose to) enjoy a cup of 抹茶 (matcha—powdered green tea). Around the Hōshōan tea house is a beautifully constructed Japanese garden in the 池泉回遊 (chisenkaiyū) style, a style of landscape which encompasses a footpath around a pond. This garden is immaculate; it’s very well maintained. This is a garden where you feel as if you’d like to spend hours wandering around it; this is a tranquil atmosphere that will relax all who visit. In one corner of this garden is the 暁天楼 (gyōtenrō). This building was originally part of the 藤村屋 (fujimuraya) Japanese inn. This inn was torn down after becoming decrepit and unable to be used anymore. The part of this building that stands now (the Gyōtenrō) was reconstructed here in 1984.

Hōfu Tenmangū is a Shintō shrine that’s full of history. Even if you’re unfamiliar with the history here, after stepping onto the overwhelmingly large grounds, you’ll (without a doubt) realise that this is an important shrine. Compared with other shrines in Yamaguchi Prefecture, Hōfu Tenmangū is certainly one of the bigger ones. With plenty to see and even the opportunity to enjoy traditional Japanese green tea, this is a shrine that’s lots of fun to visit; you’ll want to take the time to see all that there is to see here.